There's a new executive chef-- who had previously been the sous chef--the self-taught, warmly down to earth, 27 year-old Max Eagan who started out cooking with his mother in the kitchen. He has now brought his unique style to his own kitchen and is living the dream, doing what he loves best: traveling the world, absorbing new tastes and ingredients and making them his own. The guy radiates joy-- and so does his cooking.
He has a resident forager who searches the island for whatever's in season. Right now, there are wineberries-- something I've never had before, and Max has recreated something right out of my childhood--jello with whipped cream. But this is a delicate wineberry gelee topped with a silky vanilla panna cotta. It's light and cool, tangy and sweet, and utterly refreshing. I'm starting with dessert because I have a major sweet tooth.
Our main courses were perfect- cod two ways-- poached and brandade, light and fresh, delicately seasoned. A culotte--steak perfectly rare--juicy, grilled and tender; Statler chicken--moist white meat of breast with drumette attached in fragrant herbed pan juices over creamy mashed and the green of broccoli rabe as a bitter accent; braised beef shortrib melting off the bone. Even my caesar salad starter was crisp and delicious with red and green romaine.
I could go on, but you should just go. The driveway is long and mysterious, the inn is a charming shingled cottage full of antiques and candlelight in a forest clearing. Eat in the library if you can-- I think it's the prettiest room.
LAMBERT'S COVE INN & RESTAURANT
90 Manaquayak RD